Showing posts with label Old-Fashioned. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Old-Fashioned. Show all posts

22 October 2011

Edwardian Era Fashions

The glorious Edwardian era saw the height and end of the opulence classically considered to belong to Victorian society.  This period of beautiful fashions is grossly neglected, more often than not lumped together with the earlier Victorian Era. But new influences were effecting fashions—changes in the world and society. Now, perhaps more than ever, a superfluity of feathers, lace, furs, and silks was advocated in dress. The Victorian era—the classic age of elegance—ended in 1901 when Queen Victoria died. The coronation of King Edward ushered in the new Edwardian era, existing from 1901-1919—an age that was arguably even more extravagant than the golden Victorian years. 

The hour-glass figure of the 1890’s soon died out in favor of the mature, sumptuous S-curve silhouette of the early Edwardian era. As it is described in the book, All of a Kind Family:  “Here’s my front—the rest of me is coming behind!” 


Like her sisters in the Victorian age, a fashionable Edwardian woman’s striking appearance began with her undergarments. The health-conscious Edwardians had designed new corset, intended to open up the bosom for easier breathing, and to follow the contours of the spine.


Dubbed a “monobosom” by fashion designers, this corset smoothed and dropped the bust to a low sweep, nearer the waist than the neck, unlike the previous era. Doubtless, women of the early 1900’s would have at last seen relief in this new design from the tortuous corsets of the last century, were it not for the fact that tiny waists—often no wider than the breadth of a hand—were still in vogue.


In addition to a corset and chemise [a loose light undergarment, like a full-length slip], up to six petticoats were worn, each of expensive taffetas and organdies, chosen so they would rustle and whisper with each move the wearer made. In order to further heighten the dramatic S-curve effect, dressmakers concocted the “Pouter Pigeon” blouse. These blouses, paired with a flaring, floor-length skirt constituted the classic “Gibson Girl” figure, so desired by the early Edwardian women. Seamstresses sewed pouches and cascades of lace and silk to fronts of blouses to further accentuate the low, sweeping bust of the S-curve figure.

Unlike previous Victorian styles, it was not fashionable for the Edwardian women to show much skin. Everyday dresses sported high, stiff collars, while in the evening the necklines fell dramatically, yet still without showing any undue skin, thanks to the mono-bosomed, or low-breasted styles that pushed everything downward.

In contrast to the pouter-pigeon blouse, the aforementioned flared skirt were streamlined and sleek, conforming to the figure of the Edwardian woman, and flaring out at the bottom in the well-known “mermaid” style. This flare was achieved by adding gores to the skirt; as many as fifteen in some cases! Dresses and skirts were designed to twirl and sway around the ankles and feet, adding to the regal glide of the Edwardian beauty.



The shawls of the mid to late 1800’s were no longer in vogue, being replaced by jackets, sporting coats, and shoulder-capes. 

As if the gown of an Edwardian woman was not elegance enough, she was never complete without a showy fur or feather boa, a fine pair of gloves, and an elaborate hat. The high-fronted pompadour Victorian beauties advocated was still in fashion, flattened somewhat in the front, and enhanced by elegant puffs and draping at the side and back. These styles, of course, could not be achieved by the average Edwardian lady without the support of hair frames, rats, and switches of false, or collected, hair. 

          

Once the beau font hairstyle was in place, the Edwardian woman finished her attire with a hat—the bigger the better in most cases. Milliners concocted enormous works of art to crown the heads of society women. A splendid array of feathers, ribbons, fruit and anything else in the reach of the mind found its way to the stately position on the head of the regal, fashion-conscious woman. Perhaps the largest, and most ridiculous of them all appeared as the Merry Widow hat: a huge picture hat secured to the head by a foot-long hat pin.

Several examples of this style...

       


By 1909, however, fashions became more calm, cool, and collected. Belts, starched collars, vests, and neckties came into vogue as the fashion solution for women entering professions hitherto open only to men. Hats downsized and become more practical, while hairstyles relaxed and conformed more to the natural shape of the head, finally softening to a Grecian knot by the late nineteen-teens. 


  


The silhouette of the later Edwardian women, too, became less dramatic and more upright, advocating a tall, slender profile rather than the mature, curving S-figure formerly desired.

       

While still elegant and womanly, the styles of the late Edwardian era showed a practical sobriety, enhanced, perhaps ,by the pending first World War. 

These years perfected a gown that had gradually grown into being; a gown belonging peculiarly and only to the Edwardian era. Namely, the tea-dress. The tea-dress, in contrast to the highly corseted Gibson-girl outfits, had hardly any boning or strict form to it. It was, in its nature a clinging, soft, feminine gown. Designed originally as a dress to relax in before dinner, the tea-dress soon became a blessed relief in the world of Edwardian fashions.

      

In all, I think it is safe to classify the Edwardian Era as the golden, dazzling close to a reign of elegance we have yet to rival. An Era where the fashionable woman dressed with intense feminine appeal amounting almost to ridiculousness, in some cases. An Era where a lady spared no cost to show the world that she was a woman, and she gloried in it.


Meet Rachel Heffington- devoted scribbler, second-oldest of 9 children, an old-fashioned girl with old-fashioned values, a Christian, a poet, and the author of several novels for children in various stages of completion. She writes because she finds she can't help it. Everything that happens to her, everything she sees seems to find its way into her stories, poetry, and letters with very little help from her own mind. ;) She counts herself blessed that Jesus has given her a passion and [we hope] talent for writing. When she has not a pen at hand, Rachel enjoys taking long country walks, swooning over historic clothing and costumes in period dramas, watercolor painting, reading the old classics, singing in harmony with her sisters, playing volleyball, drinking tea, speaking in a British accent, plotting her next cheesecake, and laughing fit to be killed. Rachel is 19 years old and has chosen to embark on a career as a stay-at-home daughter. Something that requires a ton more energy, wit, and wisdom than the average person realizes. You can get to know Rachel in one of three spots: [Yes, she likes to be organized.]
Her blog for stay-at-home daughters: A Butcher, a Baker, a Candlestick Maker
Her writing blog: The Inkpen Authoress
or the often-amusing all-purpose blog she shares with her sister, Sarah: Our Family View From Us Two

14 October 2011

October - November Giveaway

The winner of the Edwardian Rose Cameo Necklace is...



Miss Adelaide Knight! Congratulations, dear! Please e-mail me for details about how to claim your prize.

How coincidental that my favorite month also contains my favorite giveaway of the year. I'm not   joking. Wondering what you could win? Just take a look...

Tea Gown side view Tea Gown close-up

A 1910 Tea Gown ePattern*, kindly donated by Mrs. Chancey of Sense and Sensibility Patterns!

Ladies, I am seriously envious of y'all right now. You don't know how much I'd love to win one of Mrs. Chancey's beautiful patterns. ::sigh:: Such is the luck of a giveaway hostess. :/

Oh, the Ways You Can Win!

Please comment once for each entry (except the last two).

mandatory entry: Follow Unsinkable and leave a comment saying you do.
+1 extra entry: Follow Elizabeth's blog, Living on Literary Lane, and leave a comment saying you do.
+1 extra entry: Follow Bree's blog, He Designs My Life, and leave a comment saying you do.
+1 extra entry: Put the giveaway button (found on the sidebar) on your blog's sidebar.
+1 extra entry: Put the Unsinkable button (found on the sidebar) on your blog's sidebar.
+2 extra entries: "Like" Unsinkable's page on Facebook.
+3 extra entries: Post, tweet, or Facebook about this month's giveaway and leave a comment with the link (publish the comment 3 times so as to be entered the proper amount of times).

This giveaway will close on November 12th at 11:59 P.M. The winner and next month's giveaway will be posted on November 14th.

Good luck, ladies!

*I am aware that this gown is clearly based upon one seen in the 1997 film Titanic. Having not seen the film ourselves but having heard rather disappointing things about it from close friends, Unsinkable does not support it in any way. This giveaway is only for a dress modeled in a style common among the ladies of the Edwardian era.

07 September 2011

Edwardian Hairstyles

Today I would like to share with all of you a tutorial on how to style your hair like a young lady of the Edwardian era. This article was published in the December '09 issue of Challenging Femininity. The instructions are fairly simple, and pictures are provided, which makes everything much simpler. I have yet to try this style myself but hope to do so soon. Enjoy!


*PERSONAL DISCLAIMER ADDED BY THE HOSTS OF UNSINKABLE: This tutorial was inspired by a style worn by Rose in the '97 film Titanic. Having not seen the movie ourselves, Unsinkable and its hosts do not in any way support this film or its affiliations. Thank you.*


Miss Sharla linked a video tutorial and did this style, and after seeing her photo and watching the video, I had to try it. Amanda was kind enough to let me experiment use her as a model. This is an elegant updo inspired from Rose in the 1997 film Titanic. It really is a simple style, but the curling part did take some time.

For this style you will need: a curling-iron, bobby-pins, natural [egg]hairspray, a few clips, and a comb.
First you want to start by pinning up just over half of the hair, and then curl the entire bottom layer. [Note: If your hair is already curly, wavy, or has good volume you won't need to do the layer-curling steps.] When you’re done let down half of what it clipped up and repeat by curling that layer as well...

     


Have a lovely day, ladies! Is anyone else loving autumn right now? A respite from the southern summer heat is just what I need to encourage me to put my nose to the grindstone and get on with my schoolwork... that is, when I'm not outside dancing around for pure joy. :)

10 August 2011

The Lost Art of Letter-Writing

Charlotte sighed as she glanced out the lattice window, above the bleak skies poured rain from the heavens; she looked about her father's dark library and shuddered. A dim candle's light flickered on her father's desk across the room and was the only light with which the room was lit. How could one tolerate such a depressing atmosphere? Her elderly Papa stooped over a large brown ledger opened on his old, antiqued desk. Miss Morecotte sighed once more. Why must England's March weather be so ill? Such sullen weather always made the beautiful, young mistress of the house fall into a state of low-spirits with practically nothing to entertain or amuse her. Her friends residing in the estates nearby were in the least interested visiting her on such a damp day, nor did her father's rambling of miscellany cheer her spirits; not even a new book sent from her brother in London captivated her attention. 

Miss Morecotte turned once more to the view out the lattice window with a clenched jaw. Besides the rain splatters that marked the glass from the deluge of rainfall, from the second story of the estate, she had a relatively clear view of the layout of the out-of-door gardens. The knot garden pruned and prim lay ahead whilst the perfectly even hedges their gardener tended bordered her long, deceased mother's rose beds. Of course, 'twas in the midst of March and the roses where not in bloom. 

Suddenly, in the distance she could see a small figure hurriedly dashing through the rainfall. Her curiosity was instantly pricked, and she, like an eager child, stood on the tips of her silken slippered feet to obtain a better view. 'Twas a messenger from the village hiding a parcel of some sort within his drenched coat. A few minutes later a faint knock coming from the front parlor could be heard through the door across the room, ajar; a maid's meek voice answered it in response. 

A maid knocked quietly on her father's study before entering, and scurried across the room with a bundle of papers, neatly tied with a pink ribbon. Charlotte realized it was a bundle of letters; her heart started to beat with excitement. The maid handed the bundle to her, "Post came, Lady Charlotte. The messenger explained that the week's post had been delayed for an extended period of time, Miss," and with a small curtsy she left. 

The delicate scent of lilac blossoms in the spring clung to her bundle of beautifully written letters; the calligraphy in French was definitely in a familiar hand. Charlotte smiled and her eyes brightened with joy. Then suddenly, the clouds outside parted, and cheery sunshine streamed into the dark room, illuminating a beautiful, golden glow. 

Her father, noticing his daughter's delight, inquired, "To what do I owe my daughter's radiant countenance?"

"Oh, Papa," she began. "These are letters, that were delayed for months, from my dear friend in FranceGermany and Italy." She pressed them to her heart. "I have been awaiting their delivery!" She tore open the bright red seal, and began to excitedly read the first beautiful words: My Dearest Miss Charlotte and the treasured contents within.... 

Gracious words are like honeycomb, sweetness to the soul and health to thy body. ~Proverbs 16

In our lifestyle to-day, we have no practical means of communicating through letter correspondence. We have, in the twenty-first century, computers, text messages, phones, even Skype, making us just a few clicks away from contacting a good friend. Although to-day's technology is both efficient and helpful, lettering has become an age old pastime, fading to time's eternity. Rarely do you hear a person receiving a letter from a friend in conversation, nor do you see a sweetly, hand-written note amongst the piles of junk mail and bills.   

What a lot we lost when we stopped writing letters.  You can't reread a phone call.  
~Liz Carpenter
   
‘Tis like finding a gem when one does find a hand-written note among the other tangled mess of mail.
How charming it is to think of a maiden sitting in a well-lit room with a quill pen in hand, a filled ink pot to the side, and a page of parchment lined with words in the most beautiful calligraphy. Indeed, we did not know what was lost when we stopped writing letters.

In an age like ours, which is not given to letter-writing, we forget what an important part it used to play in people's lives.  ~Anatole Broyard

Letter writing in the past was not a pastime, as we see to-day, but one of the only ways of communication. How different it would be to us to have to wait about a half a month or so to have news in a in the form of a letter from a relative or friend; since the letter was written it might be a month’s old news...so much could have happened between then!

So much might have changed between the date of the letter written and the date received. Think of it: your cousin sends a letter to let your family know that she is to be wed, and by the time you reply to the letter, she might have returned from her honeymoon by then!J  

~Brief Synopsis of the History of Letter Writing~

The Victorian Art of Letter Writing
Before the age of mass e-mails and faxes, handwritten letters were considered the only acceptable means of intimate correspondence. Victorians wrote letters of apology, letters of congratulations, letters of introduction, just to mention a few. The proper Victorian lady was obliged to convey news and information through an attractive letter. Her talent for letter-writing was not only a social obligation, but a skill that she was expected to cultivate, naturally or through practice. Her aptitude for letter-writing indicated fine breeding. Both ladies and gentlemen were judged not only by the elegance and economy of words chosen, but by their penmanship.

The correct choice of stationery was crucial to making a suitably genteel impression, although the definition of acceptable stationery changed with every decade. Colored notepaper adorned with flowers in the corner was in common use in the 1850s, and was appropriate for intimate letters. By the turn of the century, however, only heavy, white or cream tinted, unruled paper was considered tasteful. Monogrammed stationery enjoyed a vogue in the mid-1800's, but by the end of the century, was hopelessly out of fashion. Equally important was the choice of ink. When inspired, writers of the 19th century took pen in hand, dipped the point into an inkwell and set their ideas on paper. 
  
It is one of my dear wishes to uncover an old bundle of letters, neatly tied with strings, red wax seal still sticking to the faded envelopes - the content within telling a story of a relationship with a friend, or a courtship with a dashing captain! ;) 

Letters are like a piece of history. When you write a letter and send it to your relative or friend, it's now a little bit of history of your own.

So I encourage you to-day, to sit down with pen and some pretty paper in hand to send a piece of cheeriness one's way!

Letters are among the most significant memorial a person can leave behind them.  
~Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
Miss Grace is a fourteen years of age Christian young lady who is an avid reader of historical novels, dreamer of whimsy, baker of sweets, aspiring photographer and writer, and lover of anything old-fashion. She is also the tender of the garden atgracesgardenwalk.blogspot.com where she welcomes new visitors. She can usually be found by the lavender. :)  
 {To read the continuation of this article, please visit here.}